1930's into 1940's History
- The Great Depression/New Deal
- Major international media follows Gandhi’s peaceful resistance movement against British colonial rule in India
- Prohibition ends in 1931
- Drought in Texas and Oklahoma causes the Dust Bowl
- Nazi power begins to rise in Germany
- After the Depression ended, we then entered WWII
- First all talking, color, “wide screen” movie release by Warner Brothers, Song of the Flame.
- Radio is dominate in mass media, swing and blues are popular in music.
1940's History
- 1940:
- Germany invades Denmark, Norway, France, Luxembourg, Belgium, and the Netherlands during WWII.
- President Roosevelt signs act for first military draft to be created during a peacetime in U.S.
- 1941:
- Mt. Rushmore is completed
- Pearl Harbor
- 1942:
- The draft age is lowered from 21 to 18
- U.S. creates branches for women to join the war effort (Army’s Women’s Auxiliary Corps (WAC), Navy’s WAVES, Coast Guards SPARS, and Women Air Force Service Pilots.
- 1943:
- Pentagon completed
- Mussolini resigns from power and Italy surrenders.
- 1944:
- President Roosevelt elected to a fourth term, but dies the next year.
- D-Day, Paris liberated
- Poland liberated
- Gandhi is released from prison
- 1945:
- WWII ends after U.S. drops atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki
- The United Nations is created, 50 nations sign charter
- Truman becomes President after death of FDR
- 1946:
- The ENIAC (Electronic Numerical Integrator and Computer) is unveiled, first programmable electronic computer.
- 1947:
- Polaroid cameras
- 1948:
- Gandhi is assassinated
- First NASCAR race in Daytona Beach
- 1949:
- NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization) is established
- First commercial passenger jet’s first test flight
United States
- Paris under occupation, most designers leading the world in fashion trends begin to flee, or befriend occupying Nazi’s resulting in a bad reputation. The U.S. is now the leader in world fashion until post-WWII, especially witht the help of Hollywood.
- In U.S. - Rationing of materials was enforced by the government, many materials were restricted or banned
- Clothing for women usually modeled after utility/militant clothes.
- Banned materials included leather, nylon and silk (as it was primarily produced in Japan at the time). Order L-85 was issued with the goal of reducing 15% of textiles used in women’s clothing.
- Prohibition on women’s clothing included banning of pleats, ruffles, patch pockets, attached hoods and shawls, full sleeves, more than one pocket, and contained many size limitations. Hems and belts had size limitations. Exemptions were allowed for some in bridal dresses, maternity clothing, and religious vestments.
- Do it yourself fashions were encouraged. Mending was economical, and “patriotic”. Conservation of material and updating older dresses/clothing were popular, including men’s clothing, and making old clothing into new clothing for children. Home sewing, however, did not have these restrictions, so it became popular. However most patterns at the time followed the WPB’s (War Production Board) guidelines.
- Prices were controlled and regulated to avoid mass clothing price rises due to the restrictions as clothing sales fell.
War Production Board (WPM)
- Leather was off-limits, in addition to limitations being placed on gasoline, heating oil, rubber, paper, copper, and plastics
- Here are some limitations on women's clothes to reduce textile amounts by 15%:
- Circumference of ladies skirts – Maximum 84”
- Jacket lengths – 28” or less in length
- Hem length – Maximum 2” deep
- Swimsuits had the mid-length cut out to save fabric – 10% reduction in fabric
- Heel Height – Maximum 1.5”
- Slack bottom width – Maximum 14.5”
- Blouse Sleeve Width – Maximum 14”
- They controlled wages and prices to address arising problems. After limitations were placed on materials, companies tried to raise prices due to the drop in sales of clothing, so they restricted this to avoid over-inflation.
- Many companies shifted to military production, typewriter companies began producing machine guns, automobile companies began producing tanks, and undergarment companies began to produce sewed mosquito netting, a roller coaster company began to produce bomber repair platforms.
- The WPB sought to ensure each factory received the materials they needed to produce the most of amount of goods in the shortest amount of time
Women's Fashion
Popular Fashion included wide shoulders with pads, narrow hips, skirts that end just below the knee. Tailored suits, A-line skirts, and pants were also popular.
After 1947 the Fashion shifted to a more "feminine look, including rounded shoulders, more shapely bust lines, closely defined waistlines, slightly padded skirts, and full skirts just below the calf.
When war limitations were lifted, fabric choices widened and women chose colorful patterns with contrasting trim.
Sports sweaters, knee-length skirts and bobby socks were popular with teenage girls.
Plus sized "stout" fashions began to be noticed and addressed.
After 1947 the Fashion shifted to a more "feminine look, including rounded shoulders, more shapely bust lines, closely defined waistlines, slightly padded skirts, and full skirts just below the calf.
When war limitations were lifted, fabric choices widened and women chose colorful patterns with contrasting trim.
Sports sweaters, knee-length skirts and bobby socks were popular with teenage girls.
Plus sized "stout" fashions began to be noticed and addressed.
Stockings
- After Nylon and Silk stockings were needed to make bags, bomber tires, and parachutes and other military requested items, there became a massive shortage, which drove prices up, which resulted in many women reserving their stockings for church and other special events, or not being able to afford them at all.
- Women also frequently used items like gravy browning, coffee, tea and cocoa powder to stain their legs and give the appearance of stockings. Later beauty products were developed for this.
- Some women drew a seam on the back of their legs to simulate stockings.
- Cotton or rayon were the most available, but they lacked stretch that silk and nylon have.
- Nylon and silk stockings were so rare, servicemen overseas also bought them in bulk to try and win the hearts of British and French women, who also viewed them as a luxury.
- Cosmetics were infused with zinc oxide for better coverage, talc for simulating the sheen of stockings, glycerin to avoid flaking, and latex or some other adhesive to assist the makeup in staying put in bad weather. The better brands had many colors to choose from, go on evenly without streaking, dry quickly, and not rub off on shoes or skirts.
- Some liquids needed additional powder afterwards, that sealed in the liquid stockings and gave it the sheer look.
- To apply cosmetics, and help them stay, women had to begin shaving their legs a day before application, and exfoliation treatments in the morning and at night to keep skin in peak condition, as flaking skin or hair would cause streaks in the cosmetics. Treatments also included leg scrubs, extra scrubbing on feet/toes, and consistent use of body lotions.
- After the war, in 1939, synthetic stockings were developed
Women in the War
Women in the war efforts were glamorized, especially for recruitment posters, featuring bright lipstick, boxy shoulders, short formal bolero jackets and cardigans just below the waist. Military influence was evident in women's everyday where in belts, collars and gave a more "mannish feel".
Swimsuits
Swimsuits had the government request a reduction of 10% of fabric used, so the middle was a good area to cut out for two pieced bathing suits.
Plus Sizes
- They recognized that not all women are the same size, and "stout" fashion lines and patterns are introduced to allow women of different sizes to dress up with the popular fashion.
- Here is some plus size fashion advice of the time:
- The Princess cut dress is best, with side sweeping drapes provide where there is none. Loose fitting jackets over bust and hips. Biggest mistake is wearing clothing that is too tight or too loose
- Deep V, square, or sweetheart necklines are best. Avoid round or boat necklines. A high neckline is ok with the right statement necklace. Collars are usually not becoming.
- Avoid circular shapes on dress or blouse, even jewelry, such as button earrings, and pearls, especially if you have a round face
- Long, loose sleeves are better than short or mid-length, sometimes a ¾ sleeve is ok
- Skirts, a plane a-line skirt that flairs a bit at the hem is ideal. Skirt length below the knee or longer if you are also tall.
- Add horizontal trim if you have thin legs.
- Avoid a white blouse with a dark skirt. Darker shades are better, never with or pastel unless your dark complexion allows for it
- Avoid big plaids, checks and horizontal stripes. Thin materials that don’t cling to the body look best. Clingy and thick fabrics accentuate your size, cotton and cotton rayon are both good
- Formal dresses, a long panel of sparkling beads is suitable, but never a full gown of beads and sequins
- Coats – long. No double breasted suites should be worn. An open coat with thin lapels adds length with slim lines.
- Sturdy thick heel shoes you can comfortably walk in. Avoid flats and shoes with narrow heels.
- Moderate brims that don't extend too much beyond head are idea. Straight or turned up brims with some height to the crown. No small perch hats.
- Avoid long furs on coats, scarfs, and collars.
- Chunky beads and heavy metals in an assortment of bold and contrasting colors and fun and flattering. They provide an interest in a simple dress. Avoid small jewelry.
- A matching, narrow, self fabric belt, may be ok. Purses should also be large and flashy like jewelry.
- Lingerie recommends a long line bra and girdle to help posture. Bras should lift with some point shaping, but not hike up. Girdles should not squeeze, but smooth out any bumps and may provide you with a waistline too.
Accessories
Shoes were less elaborate, focusing on what was plain, sturdy and "chunky". Short and thick, due to heel size limitations by the WPB. Later in the 40's shoes got a little thinner.
Hats were very diverse. A few styles became trademarks, such as the betet, turban, and small hats with veils. They were more decorative than for protection from the sun. Hair flower clips were also popular, and typically handmade at home.
Late 1940's
After WWII was over, women embraced a "new look". Which was centered around more femininity, with rounded shoulders, shapely bust lines, closely-defined waist, slightly padded, fuller skirts, and longer skirts that hung just below the calves.
Men's Fashion
- The war caused limitations on the creation of suits, but men still sought differing style. The zoot suit was a deviation from the norm worn by "underground, rebellious city youth".
- Zoot suits were popular at the start of the 30's, but were strongly associated with gangsters by the 40s. They were seen as unpatriotic as well, due to the amount of fabric used. Usually they were pin stripped and colorful. After the war, however, this style became fashionable again.
- Men used clothing also as a demonstration of one's patriotic support.
- The WPB also placed restrictions on men's clothes, including:
- Suit pockets could not have flaps
- Trousers could not be more than 19" around, or be cuffed (men really liked the cuffed look, so they figured they could buy the suit with longer pants than you need, and learned how to cuff them at home.)
- Suits were sold without vests/waistcoats
- Britain's restrictions were harsher, such as no pleated backs, metal zippers or buttons, feature raglan sleeves, or have half belts.
- Most men kept their clothing through the 30's and wore them through the 40's, it was a sign of support to be seen in a pre-war suit.
- Suits were still everyday wear for men, usually made from wool, worsted wool, or tweed, but during the war a synthetic rayon blended with wool was used instead. Tweed, herringbone, check, and over plaids were also popular.
- Colors were muted, including black, navy, grey, dark brown, tan, and medium blue. During the summer lighter muted colors were worn.
- Trench coats, bomber jackets, knit undershirts, pea coats, chino pants, and aviator glasses all have roots in WWII clothing. With so much surplus available after the war, civilians were able to buy this clothing for several more years.
- The restrictions resulted in more casualness in men's attire. Hawaiian shirts, were sometimes worn all day. Strict dress codes were impossible to enforce when the majority of people couldn't afford a large wardrobe, even after the war ended.
- The late 1940's clothing for men was also influenced by the zoot suit, which later resulted in longer, looser jackets, double pleated pants, big hats, and wider ties. Men were eager to now wear the clothing styles and types they were not allowed to previously wear.
- Trousers were usually flat-fronted or with single pleats, with a high waist. Legs were wide around the ankle, and either straight hemmed as required during the war, or having 2" trouser cuffs (turnups) which men preferred.
- Suspenders were worn, but belts were more popular.
- Belts mostly replaced suspenders as pants became more fitted at the waist. Usually brown, tan, or black leather, and could be plain or pebbled, braided, or stamped with a western motif.
- The collared shirt was sometimes worn by itself with a pair of slacks, dress shirts were usually made with cotton donning a large, pointed collar. Shirts were shorter than what we know today and typically tucked in. Paired usually with a necktie.
- Pocket squares were a popular accessory, as were hats such as the fedora, homburg, or porkpie hat. Straw hats also became popular when it was too hot.